Pneumatic penetrator part 2

     I bought the compressor, a 6 gallon oil less 150 psi unit, I added in a; oil, filter, water separator unit to the output. The compressor is not as noisy as I thought it would be, but I may modify it with an over sized compressor muffler to try to dampen it some more. Also as an air source for a series of sex toy/bdsm gear, i'll also run a 100' rubber air hose from the compressor/tank in the garage to the area in the house. The compressor automatically fills the tank, and then shuts off when the tank is full. Clean dry air is essential for pneumatics to work properly, water droplets will cause a erratic behavior.
     The system will be controlled rather low-tech. I'll be using three relays to form a latching circuit with a set, and reset inputs. The DPDT relay is the latching part, two SPDT relays are the SET and RESET function which are triggered by "HALL EFFECT" sensors attached to the pneumatic cylinder and actuated by a magnet on the end of the cylinder rod.

YouTube video for the compressor setup

Another video showing operating a cylinder with an airgun

https://youtu.be/pXG0x6_624Y

Pneumatic penetrator

I'm designing a pneumatic penetrator toy (fucking machine). It'll allow for the dynamic control of extension length while running, also the speed of the extension and retraction will be independent of each other, and the amount of force applied is also adjustable.

Here is a video of the componants of the penetrator.

YouTube video about pneumatic parts for the penetrator

It with great sadness I have to close my ETSY shop for now.

Hello,


    I was unemployed from Feb 23 to July 2, this gave me plenty of time to build items and full fill orders for my customers, and even make new innovations. I recently took a pipeline locating contract with a local company, and they have me all over Texas for several weeks at a time. I am unable to manufacture under these conditions, so I'm closing for now. I may reopen later if I change jobs to a well paying one that gives me time to produce again.
     I am working on a few new things for my own innovation. I applaud' "THE HOUSE OF GORD" for their AIR CHAIR machine. I am building a somewhat different version of it, with some better additions for more versatility. My chair will be made from fir 2x4's and be built like a large dinner chair with arm rests. The chair will be very adjustable with a sliding back, adjustable height arm rests, and a foot rest ledge across the front legs, so as to accommodate a female sub of almost any build. Like the "AIR-CHAIR" it will feature restraint straps, but will use aircraft seat belts instead of ratchet straps, and will also use pneumatic cylinders to tighten the straps for a given time period but will feature a timer countdown relay to operate the solenoid valve that tightens them, and their own separate air regulate to control the force applied. The timer will have a hard wired upper limit on time selectable for safety, and the air pressure regulator will also have a safety blow off to insure the force is not to high. The cylinders for tightening the straps will have individual ball valves to limit which ones tighten for special applications (physical disabilities, pregnant subs, etc.). The cylinders extension and retraction modes will have individual flow controls so as to allow for; sudden fast retraction and slow release (for those who like it rough), slow retraction and fast release (for those who like the creepy effect of being slowly restrained tightly for a short time), and fast/fast, or slow/slow to accommodate all personal preferences.
     I'll also be building a pneumatic penetration machine using a pneumatic cylinder dual action and reed switches to dynamically control the extension length of the cylinder, and flow valves to control how fast the cylinder extends and how fast it retracts for the best effect on the sub its used on.

I'd like anyone reading this to check out the 'HOUSE OF GORD" specifically the AIR-CHAIR to get an idea of what I'm working on currently on paper and in notes.

LUBRICANTS for sex and erotic photography!

The big question is. What lubricant to use for sex? There are some rules to avoid problems with your subject or the toys you use! Here are the lubricants used;

• light mineral oil
• heavy mineral oil
• glycerin
• propylene glycol
• silicone lube
• mineral oil based greases (Vaseline, petroleum jelly)
• water based food texturizers (guar gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, methyl cellulose)
• Bentonite clay (uncommon, specific fetish use)
• J-LUBE  (water based)

As lubricants go, one must be careful to use the right lubricants with their toys. If you are using Silicone (TPE), vinyl, or plastic toys. The best lubricants are mineral oils, mineral oil greases, glycerin, food texturizers, or bentonite clay. Do not use a silicone based lube with silicone or TPE toys, it will deteriorate and melt the silicone rubber.

If you are using any form of rubber (latex or vulcanized) then you must use only certain lubricants such as; silicone lube, glycerin, bentonite, or water based! mineral oil and such will rapidly deteriorate the rubber and ruin the toy.

Heavy mineral oil is the oil usually found in medium sized bottles at the local pharmacy, it works well, but if you want one thats thinner, our local farm and ranch supply/ feed store sells "LIGHT MINERAL OIL" in gallon bottles. If your looking for a wide variety of MINERAL OIL viscosities, try a good restaurant equipment supply. They carry gallon bottles of food grade mineral oil for lubricating equipment, it's sold in SAYBOLT VISCOSITY, the higher the number the thicker the oil. be sure your using pharmaceutical/veterinary grade or food grade oil! Light mineral oil is around S-70, while heavy mineral oil is S-200, and super thick is in the S-350 to S-500 range. See this link for 1 gallon bottles, rather reasonably priced:
STE OIL COMPANY

If your looking for the very shiny wet look on a subject for effect or photographic purposes, then coating them with a think layer of light mineral oil works great, if you need them to be even more shiny, then use a 70/30 mix of vegetable glycerin and distilled water, spray it over the mineral oil, and they'll look super wet and shiny! If the water/glycerin layer seems to dry out to quickly (air-conditioning and heating will cause this during play time or a photo shoot) then you can change the mixture to 60/30/10 mix of glycerin, distilled water, and propylene glycol (the propylene glycol will attract moisture to the mixture and prevent evaporation).

Bentonite clay and water (sometimes glycerin and/or propylene glycol is added as well) is used in a thin- medium slurry for mud fetish scenes! Many people use it as a lubricant in these scenes during penetration as well, as it is very slippery, but adds enough thickness to increase sensation. Safety is unknown, but I cannot find reports of any side effects or hazards of it entering through anal or vaginal cavities. Women should probably irrigate their vaginal canals out afterwards to be on the safe side. powder BENTONITE clay can be purchased from "WELL DRILLING SUPPLY HOUSES, or at AMAZON or E-BAY" you should look for QUICK GEL for water well drilling. You'll need a good paint stirrer that you can mount on a cordless drill, a appropriately sized bucket for mixing, and take your time adding water while mixing to get the results you want in thickness, after you have achieved a thickness you want, add a few ounces of propylene glycol to alter it's viscosity and slow down the drying process while you play!
ATLANTIC SUPPLY

J-LUBE is sold as a white powder in a bottle, 1 heaping tablespoon to 32 OZ distilled water makes a very clear, slippery, slimy lubricant, it's actually hard to wash off, but table salt sprinkled on your hands quickly breaks the chemical bonds and allows it to be washed off. Use a blender to mix it up, and you can add glycerin and or propylene glycol to it to make it even more slippery! This is a favorite replacement for petroleum jelly for anal sex.
J-LUBE at JORVET supply
Vet supplies are a great place to buy other items for medical fetish as well!

For food gums, you'll need to research how to mix them with water. Some only dissolve in hot water then gel when they cool, others much like starches must be dissolved in cold water then heated to a simmer to dissolve then gel as the cool. XANTHAN GUM works very well with glycerin and propylene glycol as a water based lubricant.

Accommodating special physical needs with BDSM play

     At my shop on ETSY (www.etsy.com/shop/magnus454) I offer to modify my products for those with physical disabilities. I am willing to make reasonable modifications for a minor up charge to accommodate physical limitations. I already have a military gas mask for children modified to a sensory deprivation mask for those who are very petite, or those of the little persons community (dwarfism).
     I have designed and installed an electric hoist assisted sex swing for women up to 400 lbs. The finished product was mounted in the attic space above a spare bedroom that my client wanted to turn into a BDSM/BONDAGE dungeon. The finished design was completely hidden when the sling was removed and retracted into the attic space. The control unit was rewired with extra long cable for solo play, and plugged into a custom connection on a wall plate set at the height of the other outlets in the room to blend in. A pair of magnetic catches hold a wooden cover plate textured and painted to match the ceiling to hide the access to the hoist cable. The sling could be lowered all the way to the floor or raised nearly to the height of the ceiling. I even included a hidden lever that could be used to release the clutch as an emergency release in case of power failure. The design included a mandatory bouldering crash pad that was to be placed underneath the sling in case of a fall or a emergency clutch release.
     Further mods later included included new lighting added to the room for photographic and atmosphere purposes; four recessed lights on a slide dimmer with LED bulbs, and four 3 ft track light sections with each track on it's own dimmer to control highlights on the suspended subject during photography. The carpet and tack strip was removed, the concrete was patched where needed and the concrete was primed and had three coats of solid color epoxy applied to it to make clean up of spills and accidents easy. Due to the increase in echo from the lack of carpet, I constructed acoustic foam panels over particle board that can be easily hung and removed for cleaning to absorb the echo.
     In the end the project was an overwhelming success, my client was thrilled and in addition to my payment as per our original agreement, she invited me to observe her perform a solo play scene with the gear, as she was also populating the room with a heavy duty spanking/restraint bench.
     

Suction toy repair

Hello,

   This installment is for those small clear suction toys you buy from the adult toy shop, e-bay, and from dealers in Hong Kong. They work well, they are a clear plastic cup of varying sizes that has a plastic screw drive that pulls back a plastic plate with usually two black rubber o-rings. First off the O-rings are usually the basic black rubber o-rings, not silicone, nitrile, or epdm. To this be sure you only use Teflon or silicone or a combination of the two for greasing them, any mineral oil or Vaseline will ruin them! If you have damaged the o-rings in some way, fear not you can replace them! Try to use the following if you can for o-rings for more durability and longer life;

• NITRILE RUBBER (better)
• HBNR (best)
• EPDM (good)
• standard rubber (ok)

Using Nitrile, HBNR or EPDM you can use any lubircant you wish, mineral oil, vaseline, or silicone/Teflon lubricants.

     You'll need different o-rings for different size suction units. the easiest way is to go to an autoparts store and get a seal pick tool, this looks very similar to a dental pick, it's sharp on the end, and smooth down the shaft so as to not cut or damage the o-ring. Once you have the o-ring removed, take them into the auto parts store and have them see if they have the same size, it'll be metric in it's size since these are made in China. Try to see if you can get something better than the standard black rubber, if they can tell the size, then see if you can order HBNR fro the most durability. Always lubricate the rings after you install them before you screw the plate back into the cup.

     If your suction toy arrives with a chip in the base where it contacts skin, this will be a problem. This will cause both a lose of suction when using, and can be very uncomfortable. The way to repair these is to repair it with durable epoxy, here is a list of what you will need;

• JB Weld epoxy (2 part)
• 90% rubbing alcohol
• 1500 grit sandpaper (auto parts stores)
• wax paper
• flat smooth block of wood
• thumb tacks

Clean the damaged areas of the vacuum cup with a clean rag and 90% alcohol several times to remove any grease or oil. Then mix an even amount of PART A and PART B of the epoxy together and blend with a toothpick until it's ones even steel gray color. use the toothpick to apply the mixed epoxy to the chipped area then use a clean toothpick  smooth the area off level with the rest of the suction surface.  Now place the cup onto the wax paper on a smooth flat surface over night. The next day you can peel away the wax paper, clean with rubbing alcohal, if the surface isn't smooth enough use thumb tacks to attach the 1500 grit sandpaper to a smooth block of wood, and place the suction surface down onto the paper, and gently slide it around in a circular motion ont he flat surface a few times, then check to see if it's smooth.

Vacuum pumping play with a milking machine

Hello,


     This article will focus on the "BABSON SURGE BUCKET MILKER" in particular, but the principals are similar. Babson surge milkers are readily available on E-bay, ETSY, and other sites. In farming communities they are sold in various conditions in local newspapers. Under most circumstances you'll need to clean and rebuild the pulsator unit. You will need in addition to a working milking machine;

• a vacuum pump (3 cfm unit) (Harbor Freight)
• heavy vinyl hose to lengthen the connection from the pulsator to the teat cups
• plumbers silicone grease (Home Depot)
• RECTORSEAL TRU-BLUE sealant (Home Depot)
• vacuum relief valve (Grainger Supply)
• vacuum line caps (O'Reilly Auto Parts)
• brass plumbing fittings
• pulsator rebuild kit (Hanby Dairy Supply)
• Turtle Wax inside and out protectant (Home Depot)

     You can get a pulsator rebuild kit very easily from HANBY DAIRY SUPPLY. I recommend the pulsator rebuild kit with oil. You will also need cheap basic pipe cleaners, and some spray carburetor cleaner as well. Once you disassemble the pulsator completely, flush out the stainless steel body of the pulsator completely with carb cleaner, and run pipe cleaners though the various passages, then replace all the parts and oil thoroughly. 

     Since your not using the milker to actually milk productively, a simple modification will keep the system more compact and improve the vacuum pump performance. there is a small valve that sits between the milk tank and the pulsator, it's below the pulsator unit, remove this valve and reattach the pulsator, put silicone plumbers faucet grease on the o-rings and a thin layer on the milk tank lid's rubber seal. This modification will turn the milk tank into a vacuum buffer/storage tank. The vacuum pump that I listed above is for air-condition/refrigeration work, you'll need to remove the ACME hose fittings, and put some brass plumbing fittings in place of them with hose barbs to connect the vinyl hose from the pump to the milker, and a brass "T" between the pump and the milker to install the Vacuum relief valve to regulate the level of vacuum your applying. Seal the brass fitting with the rectorseal tru blue (teflon tape and regular rector seal will leak vacuum due to vibration!). There are three size of teat cups available for the babson surge, you'll have to experiment to see what works best for you. Always clean the rubber sleeves in the teat cups with mild soap and water, dry, them spray them with the "TURTLE WAX INSIDE AND OUT PROTECTANT" to protect the rubber from deterioration.

     The previous paragraph speaks of modifications good for general use, and for specifically using teat cups for nipple pumping. For vaginal/labia pump you can cap the vacuum line going to a teat cup, and connect a vaginal/labia (pussy pumping) cup sex toy to it, so you only have the pulsator line working the cup. The same modification will work for penis pumping as well, simple connect a penis pump to the pulsator connection, and cap off the vacuum line.

     As a final note, I would keep at least one extra rebuild kit on hand, if you keep the leather parts oiled, they will last forever, but every now and then they break or tear, or if unused for too long, the leather can dry out. Always check the pulsator leather seals before using, and oil first, otherwise you can tear a dried out leather, and ruin a working leather seal.